While other Mexican seaside communities have
been overwhelmed by the desire to service tourists and in the process
destroy the special attributes that drew the folks to them in the
first place, La Paz has managed to maintain its natural character
of a truly Mexican city situated on a beautiful bay, Bahia de La
Paz. There are no high-rise hotel complexes blocking the ocean like
Acapulco, no commercial port where there once was sand dunes like
Ensenada, no abandoned tourist zones like Mazatlan, no bar scene
like Puerto Vallarta, no uncontrolled overbuilding like Cabo San
Lucas. Fortunately, La Paz remains an undiscovered tranquil city
resting on the turquoise Sea of Cortez. It’s brand, clean
Malecon in the heart of the city still provide direct access to
both beach and bay.
La Paz was discovered in 1535 when Hernan Cortez
came and named it Puerto de la Santa Cruz "the Port of the
Holy Cross". In 1596, it was renamed la Paz, that means Peace,
because of its gentle people and restful environment. The feeling
of peacefulness remains today as something tangible and desirable.
The city’s economic history began as a trade and commerce
center with pearling, and then fishing, creating jobs and international
sources of income. In 1838, La Paz became the Capital of Baja California
Sur that became a State. La Paz has remained the seat of government
since 1838, the Governor resides here as do all State officials.
The main branches of both State and Mexican Federal government offices
conduct their business here. The government is the city’s
major employer creating a relatively solid economy base and a significant
middle income level work force. It is a very practical business
community with a town that serves its needs. It is this strong economic
foundation that maintains La Paz as a Mexican city unaffected by
the tourist trade.
Although there is tourism, it is mainly nationals
who come here to enjoy the water, the nearby islands and the isolation
of the desert. The Japanese come just for scuba. The tourist industry
of La Paz is involved in a unique chicken and egg situation that
has stifled growth in this area. There are only one thousand hotel
rooms available in the city. The airlines that already service La
Paz won’t add more flights, nor will other airlines be willing
to come in, because of the limited number of quality rooms. On the
other hand, hoteliers and developers are reluctant to build since
there is such limited air access and no guarantee more tourists
can reach La Paz unlike Cabo San Lucas which has flights arriving
all day long from all over the place. The economic future of La
Paz is, therefore, heading away from traditional tourism; only ecotourism
is being singled out as a potential growth industry.
For now, La Paz maintains a small town feeling,
its streets seem uncrowded, its pace unhurried, even though its
population is 180,000 plus and growing. Its culture can be said
to be centered on the water, the beaches and the surrounding desert.
Its totally romantic natural beauty, including spectacular sunsets,
entices and captures foreigners. Unlike some other Mexican retirement
havens, La Paz has no gringo ghettos, even though there is a concentration
of Americans at the Marinas. The foreigners live everywhere, all
around the city in neighborhoods where most of their neighbors are
Mexicans.
Many foreigners used to arrive on boats and stay
forever, while others stick around for a year or two and head off
to parts unknown. Over the last seven years, there has been a noticeable
growth in the foreign population ranging from older people living
on social security to retirees who have bought nice comfortable
houses to younger folks end entrepreneurs that participate actively
in the local economy.
There are four major supermarkets. Two CCCs (pronounced
say-say-say) which carry everything found in U.S. supermarket including
deli items, Aramburo which is supposed to stock the best meat in
town and Ley a new big supermarket with all Mexican specialty from
mainland. There are many Oriental restaurants, so short grain rice
and dried shitake mushrooms can be purchased. There is a significant
Asian population in La Paz, their history tracing back to the Chinese
who built the U.SS. railroads and then headed into Mexico, migrating
into the Baja Sur. There are also public Mexican markets such as
Mercado Madero, a tin roofed building where you can buy produce,
meats, sea foods, fresh juices, as well as, hats, belts, blankets
and flip-flops and the Mercado Bravo, famous for its seafood and
its little restaurants with all typical Baja dishes. There are also
street vendors that come around the neighborhoods selling fresh
produce and plants.
There is a municipal bus service. They have used
buses brought down from the States. There are jitneys, small vans
that runs specific routes. There are lots of taxis whose reasonable
prices are fixed by law, but you should still ask before the ride
what they will charge.
Money Exchange Locations ... Most hotels will
give you close to the bank exchange rate. Stores will accept dollars
and credit cards on most purchases and give a reasonable rate of
exchange.
Every hour shuttle buses run from the bus station
downtown to the most popular beaches: La Concha, Balandra &
Tecolote. Deep Sea Fishing, windsurfing and other activities can
be organized through major hotels and travel agencies.
Medical care is perceived as adequate.
There are seven hospitals including a Military hospital and the
Centro de Especialidades Medicas (aka the Purple Hospital) near
Fidepaz with a twenty four hour emergency room. The doctors in La
Paz are said to be very capable but there are not enough who are
bilingual. An office visit to a doctor is 200-300 Pesos. There is
an acupuncturist and chiropractic services available. There are
several Mexican style health stores which carry herbs, vitamins
and tonics and make fresh, delicious juice drinks.