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There is only one airline flying directly into
La Paz (LAP): Aero California, and only from Los Angeles. Currently
there are only two flights a day: one at 7:45 am and one at 1:05pm,
but they change constantly so check online or with a travel agent.
Prices range from $280 - $500 round trip, depending on dates and
advance bookings. If you fly into La Paz it is a short taxi ride
($10) from the airport to the Marina Palmira.
I have also heard that it is cheap and relatively
easy to fly to La Paz from Tijuana, but I don’t have any current
info.
Alternately, you can fly into San Jose del Cabo
(SJD) from several cities on Alaska Airlines, United/Mexicana, American
and many other carriers. As a rough idea, with 3-week advance purchase,
the fare is $380 round-trip from Portland (PDX). Most flights go
through Los Angeles, San Jose, San Francisco, San Diego, or Phoenix,
but there are also direct flights.
I have seen prices as low as $250 and as high
as $700. Or you can use your airline miles (30,000 – 35,000)
but because it is an international flight they can get sticky about
changing your return flight once travel has begun. When I miss my
return flight I just show up at the airport, smile, shrug and ask
nicely if they can get me home (since the reason I missed my flight
is that I was in an important meeting with the President of Mexico
who is a CLOSE personal friend of mine—I carry a “signed”
photo of him, along with one of Jesus, in my wallet just for this
purpose). I’ve never had a problem getting home (occasional
$50 change fee).
From the airport in Cabo there are several options
for getting to La Paz:
1) Taxi. If you have 4 or more people this is
a reasonable option. It will cost around US$220 for a van which
will hold up to 6 persons + gear. They leave right from the airport.
The taxi stand is inside the airport just outside baggage claim.
You might be able to snag a couple other people at the airport who
are heading that way and want to share a taxi with you; don’t
be shy—ask around or just hang there for a bit and see if
you can put a group together (even if they’re only going to
Los Barrilles or Buena Vista).
2) Rental Car. Most of the national companies
(Avis, Thrifty, Alamo, National) have airport kiosks but some will
not let you drop the car in La Paz (one way rental). It’s
best to make a reservation from the U.S. Rates run around US$30/day
plus 30¢ per kilometer. Since it is about 170 km (3-4 hours
drive time) from the Cabo airport to La Paz, figure about US$80
total cost (including gas) for the trip. And it can be handy to
have a car in La Paz for a day.
3) Bus. A pretty easy and inexpensive option.
From the airport you can take a shuttle bus (US$11, 15-minute ride)
straight to the bus station in San Jose del Cabo. From there, buses
to La Paz run every 2-3 hours (US$12, 3-4 hour ride), with the last
bus leaving around 7pm. The buses are safe and clean. From the bus
station in La Paz it is a US$10 taxi ride to Marina Palmira where
JANGADA is. Total cost: US$28.
From the west coast (Seattle, Portland, San Francisco,
San Jose, etc.) you should figure on a full day to arrive. [If you
fly Aero California from LA you arrive in La Paz at 10:45am.] When
I fly out of Portland I leave at 10am and arrive (by bus) in La
Paz around 10pm. It is not a particularly rough day of travel but
it still takes all day.
One advantage to taking the bus or taxi: have
the driver stop for beer; I don’t know if it’s legal
but it sure is common. Oh, and make sure the beer is for you, NOT
the driver.
This is relatively painless (unless you are bringing
in an apple tree, cow or $10 million in cash). Be sure to have your
forms (which they give you on the plane) COMPLETELY filled out and
signed or they will send you to the back of the line to start over.
Remember: you are a TOURIST (not business). Although
a driver’s license and birth certificate will work, it is
much better to have a passport (be sure it is current!).
When you go through customs you will push a button
on a light pole; if the green light goes on you whisk right through.
If the red light goes on (legalized gambling?) they search your
bags. No worries, it just takes a few minutes.
The rental car kiosks are right in baggage claim
so if you’re getting a car, check in there (there’s
a shuttle bus outside to take you to the main office and your car).
Then you’re out in the main lobby where
there are lots of people wanting to take you to hotels, tours, and
other great adventures. Most speak English and are friendly and
helpful. So depending on your choice, either take a shuttle to the
bus station or car rental office, or hop in a taxi. There’s
not much bargaining for taxi prices these days but you can always
try. Again, see if there are other people going your way and offer
to splt the cost with them.
Baja is relatively clean and safe (and fun!)
but you still have to watch your luggage and money because no matter
what, you are MUCH wealthier than almost anyone you will encounter.
Keep your wallet, camera, passport and other valuables with you
and out of sight. I always have a ‘spare’ wallet stashed
in my luggage with a credit card, $100 in cash, and a color copy
of my passport…. just in case.
U.S. dollars are king, and are taken everywhere.
The currency exchange rate is around 11 pesos to the dollar (the
Mexican sign for the Peso is also “$”, so be sure to
ask whether the price is in dollars or pesos, especially if the
posted price for a bottle of water is $10….
Speaking of which, although the water in Baja
comes from a very clean sand aquifer, the delivery system can be
marginally sanitary: drink bottled water.
The more Spanish you speak the easier it will
be, but this is by no means a prerequisite. A large percentage of
Baja residents speak at least a little English and sign language,
along with a big smile and a few ‘por favor’ and ‘gracias’
goes a long way to solving any problems. Which you won’t have
because you’re ON VACATION!!!
There are several internet cafes in La Paz ($1/hour!)
and good phone access too. Hurricane Marty pounded the city in October
2003 (over 100 boats sunk, destroyed or badly damaged when 2 of
the 3 marinas tore apart!) but things are pretty much back to normal
(mañana) and Saturday night along the Malecon (waterfront
walkway) is a great place for people watching.
One last note about driving in Baja: there
are three main hazards: cows, cops and potholes. Drive slow, carefully
and if at all possible, during the daylight hours, and you’ll
have no problems. At night many Mexican cars have marginal (or no)
headlights and the cows are all over the road (they have right of
way!). If you get stopped by the police be courteous, adamantly
declare your innocence, tell them your brother-in-law is Jeb Bush,
and offer a $5 bribe. And only speak in loud, fast English. Ha ha,
only kidding: speak French.
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